Arles · France · Essay № 11

Provence in August.

On a tea that tastes like the place it grew up.

11 Arles, courtyard near les Arènes · 14:50

The cicadas were loud enough to be a third person at the table. The courtyard was old in the way Roman things are old — not preserved, just still here.

Tilleul is linden blossom, dried in summer, brewed pale yellow and a little sweet. The French give it to children who can't sleep. They also give it, less officially, to adults who can't sleep. It tastes like a flower that knew it was being dried. [^1]

I drank it slowly because the heat was the kind that doesn't reward speed. A woman at the next table was reading a paperback in German. A boy chased a cat that did not want to be chased.

I have never been less in a hurry. Tilleul agreed.

[^1]: The trees grow all over Provence. Late June, the streets smell like honey for a week, and then it's over.

If you go
Find it
Any café in the old town. The courtyards are cooler than the squares.
Order
Une tisane de tilleul. They will not ask why.
Pay
€4-6.
When
The hottest part of the afternoon. That's the point.