Provence in August.
On a tea that tastes like the place it grew up.
The cicadas were loud enough to be a third person at the table. The courtyard was old in the way Roman things are old — not preserved, just still here.
Tilleul is linden blossom, dried in summer, brewed pale yellow and a little sweet. The French give it to children who can't sleep. They also give it, less officially, to adults who can't sleep. It tastes like a flower that knew it was being dried. [^1]
I drank it slowly because the heat was the kind that doesn't reward speed. A woman at the next table was reading a paperback in German. A boy chased a cat that did not want to be chased.
I have never been less in a hurry. Tilleul agreed.
[^1]: The trees grow all over Provence. Late June, the streets smell like honey for a week, and then it's over.
- Find it
- Any café in the old town. The courtyards are cooler than the squares.
- Order
- Une tisane de tilleul. They will not ask why.
- Pay
- €4-6.
- When
- The hottest part of the afternoon. That's the point.